Derry

After another huge breakfast called an Ulster breakfast which is the same as an Irish breakfast with the addition of potato bread, we walked round the entire wall quite briskly as the wind was biting. It's a mile and a quarter in length, which is another strange thing up here. Everything's changed! Kilometres are  miles, euros are pounds sterling. I am not even sure if they call themselves Irish! There's no Gaelic on any signs and even the buildings look English. 

One of the many muralled buildings of Bogside.

Bogside- centre of the Troubles

Family photo atop the wall

The old Gaol

The contrasts existing in Derry

Of course, our history lesson during our guided walk where we walked the wall again explained the reasons why this is so. Derry has a long and troubled history going right back to the early 1600s. The first settlement was burned to the ground by the Irish who didn't appreciate their land being settled by the English, so the second settlement was fortified by the erection of a high, thick stone wall which still exists today in ints entirety. There are four arched gateways- Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate.


After a quick cuppa, we packed up our luggage and headed off to Crockatinny Guest House- our next B&B. Our first stop was Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne which the Earl Bishop Fredrick began building around 1772. Mussenden Temple which was built as a library has survived the ravages of time, but Downhill House has not been so lucky. All that remains is the rock-walled shell of the original house, although it was still being used right through the second world war years. What a shame that such a beautiful house has fallen into disrepair though neglect! Built on a headland with views along the coast in both directions as well as a view of the magnificent wooded hills, it would have been a true masterpiece. You might get some idea of the beauty of the setting from the photos, or better still take a look at Keeley's photos!

Mussenden Temple- the library

The view west

the view east through the window

the ruined shell of Downhill House

the view through the dining room window

the remaining walls of the house

After stopping for refreshments at Bon Appetit Cafe in Portstewart, we drove the scenic, but scary, route along the coast past the ruins of Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, and the Giant's Causeway all of which we are planning to visit tomorrow, reaching our B&B at 3.30pm to find it deserted! A brief moment of panic before a level-headed Kiryn called the mobile number only to find out that our hostess was picking up her son from school and would be home in a couple of minutes, which, thankfully, she was.

Crockatinny is beautiful. Built in 1999, it has the feel of a place much older, and we fully expected to meet a ghost while ascending the dimly lit spiral staircase. We have the four upstairs rooms: Arran ( ours), Gigha, Jura and Islay which I think may be the names of islands in the Scottish Hebrides or alternately, names of whiskies!

View from our balcony ( yes, all our rooms have balconies!)

Dinner at the Diamond Bar-had to drink lots to counteract the effects of spicy chilli chips!